The 2007 Branco leads off our vertical this issue. This was the debut year for this brand. Never seen before, it has held reasonably well. That said, this also needs to be drunk up. At the moment, I can call it wonderfully complex with a fine medley of flavors on the finish and a lively demeanor. It still has respectable concentration and some grip on the finish. It does show enough age, though, that some will likely be a little less thrilled. It is not completely prime time, although very interesting. I wouldn't hold it too much longer, but I just loved it today, more than the score might suggest.

The 2007 TINTO CRASTO is a good “rebound” for this bottling (not yet seen in the States), after declining for a couple of vintages. All of the vineyards are owned by the winery, but not all of them are part of Quinta do Crasto, hence the labeling of this bottling. Elegant, clean, pure and loaded with flavor, this has relatively little depth, but makes up for that in charm. I think this will be a lot of fun to drink, simply delicious, sunny and early maturing. It is a Douro blend, heavy on the Tinta Roriz. Drink now-2015. Crasto, on every short list for “best of Portugal,” had an awfully nice vintage this year. The Old Vines Reserva is one of the best intersections of price and quality in this report, and the Vinha da Ponte is a strong “wine of the vintage” candidate.Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

A full but easy wine, ready to drink with its juicy red berry fruits, nutmeg and walnut flavors, lifted by lively acidity.——R.V.(12/15/2009)—— 87