Lemon oil, lanolin, and resin on the nose of the Pinson 2008 Chablis Mont-de-Milieu anticipate the somewhat uneasy marriage of citrus and oak elements it presently displays on the palate. Waxy in texture and with brown spices adding to the pungency of citrus rind in its persistent finish, this offers only modest refreshment, and it seems as if its sharper elements have merely been slightly blunted rather than satisfyingly rounded by its stay in barrel. All of that said, there is an admirable sense of richness as well as length here, and the wine may just need a bit of time. I’d plan to revisit in 2011 before attempting to prognosticate about its further evolution. Laurent Pinson’s 2008 collection seemed to benefit greatly from the inherent brightness and exuberance of the vintage, in that the awkwardness of oak was less-often evident to me than it had been in either of his immediately preceding collections. Only this year’s Mont de Milieu crossed into 13% alcohol territory, although as the Pinsons reminded me, their 2007s were as a group even a bit lower in alcohol.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644 and also a Charles Neal Selection, Richmond, CA; tel (415) 225-5144 (with various importers)

Muted apricot and apple nose. Dense, concentrated. Lots of acidity and extract. Austere, solid, structured and long.