Denis Dubordieu, professor of oenology at Bordeaux University, is credited with having introduced white Burgundy style of winemaking to Bordeaux, with whole bunch maceration and barrel fermentation as important elements. From his Graves estate, Clos Floridene is a beautifully formed wine, with lemon, white peach and grapefruit flavors, and supporting (never dominating) wood. ——R.V.(6/1/2005)—— 91