Here’s one for the cellar. With a relatively modest alcohol of 13.6 percent, and crisp, coastal acidity and tannins, the sturdy structure frames ripe, lush flavors of blackberries, cherries, Dr. Pepper and peppery spice. Dry and very refined, the wine drinks well now and should evolve through 2012. ——S.H.(11/1/2008)—— 93