Still acidic and steely in minerals at the age of nearly four years, this Chardonnay has an elegance that will appeal to sommeliers and foodies. It’s a Chablis-style wine, bone dry and crisp, with tart lemon, lime and grapefruit flavors. Defines a leaner California style that is classically Santa Cruz Mountains. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 90