The 2008 Te Kahu Gimblett Gravels Vineyard is a blend of 64% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Malbec matured in 48% new oak for 18 months. It has an introverted bouquet with blackberry leaf, cassis, damson, vanilla and a touch of blueberry that unfurls nicely in the glass. The palate is tannic and very well defined, a captivating symmetry here with an irresistible velvety finish that lingers long after the wine has bid adieu. Although it already shows considerable breeding, it will offer more later. Drink 2014-2022+. The wines from Craggy Range were tasted both in Hawkes Bay in January 2010 and then in London six months later. Steve Smith, Rod Easthope and the team continue to furnish consumers with a wide portfolio of terroir-based wines that satisfy both the value and prestige end of the market. Having tasted many of their wines, there is no doubt that they have ‘toned down’ their style, the initial releases being rather hubristic and a tad top-heavy with oak. This sense of refinement has lent the wines greater poise and breeding. Their reds are still their strongest suit, in particular their flagship labels such as ‘Le Sol’ and ‘Sophia’, but do not overlook their Chardonnays that exude great purity and Burgundian poise. Meanwhile their ‘Wild Rock’ entry-level range, which is treated as a completely separate entity to Craggy Range, contains some delightful varietals that form a neat introduction to the delights of Hawkes Bay’s wines.Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.