Spanier’s 2008 Hohen-Sulzer Riesling trocken (past vintages of which bore a capital S on their label as part of the wine’s name) smells of apricot with its kernel, maraschino, tangerine zest, almond, and blond tobacco. Almond and pistachio cream with luscious apricot on a polished palate lead to an exuberantly juicy as well as fascinating finish. This should prove delightful for at least 6-8 years. Oliver Spanier – for a bit about whose distinctive sites and methods see issue 185 – harvested his 2008 vintage Rieslings from mid-October through the first week of November, and reports having performed no de-acidification.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799