Strawberry/salmon pink, this party-ready wine comes on light as a feather. Almost frothy, it’s delicate, like whipped butter; its richness is suggested rather than felt. All the pieces are in balance, but very light, and perhaps in a tasting with bigger, more powerful wines it seems insubstantial. But it’s quite well made, creamy, spicy and refreshing. ——P.G.(12/1/2006)—— 88
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