The 2019 Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir—nicknamed Black Ops—is indeed a darker shade of ruby than the regular bottling. Just the merest hint of cedar appears on the nose, accenting notes of black cherries, plums and some earthy, spicy, cola-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and bold, this expansive, generous wine is framed by silky tannins and bright acids, which prolong the mouthwatering finish. It's a terrific effort from one of the region's acknowledged masters—owner/winemaker Rudi Bauer.