Don’t cry for me, Argentina! This is a beautiful, pungent, two-fisted effort, which comes on like a petite sirah. At first inky, grapey and tannic, it gains complexity in the mouth, adding elements of raw meat, leaf and forest floor. At the center is a striking core of tart blueberry/boysenberry compote. This one can go awhile.——P.G.(2/1/2005)—— 90