You can tell from the dark color this is a big wine, and one whiff confirms it. Blackberries and plums, smoke, pepper, leather and anise are just some of the complex scents. It’s big and fleshy in the mouth, but seems too extracted, especially for this varietal, which wants a certain austere delicacy. This could easily be a big Merlot. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 86