This wine has never struck me as terribly interesting, and the 2006 Cote Rotie Les Essartailles seems somewhat superficially made, with adequate ripeness, but not a whole lot of charm or character. This negociant firm in village of Seyssuel is run by three of the top talents of the northern Rhone, Francois Villard, Yves Cuilleron, and Pierre Gaillard. Made from purchased grapes and wine, everything is destemmed and the wines are aged in a high percentage of new oak, giving a rather modern feel to them. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Spicy and plummy, well-extracted fruit. Ripe with a little greenness, but will age. Natural tannins. Seductive yet structured.