The 2006 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling trocken is one of the most amazing concentrates of what can only be called “mineral stuff” that I have ever encountered in the Rheingau. The ripeness yet brightness of acids and concentration of peach and lemon are more than a match for all the seeming concentration of stones, brine, and ores on exhibit. Problems arise though from the phenolic roughness, cyanic bitterness, and alcoholic heat also present. It would be fascinating to see how this dense, powerhouse wine evolves, but I have my doubts. Surely this wine would have been better in every respect for a bit or residual sugar. Try employing it selectively and revisiting over the next couple of years. Heinrich Breuer and Hermann Schmoranz began their Riesling harvest October 6, and finished in record time. Selective picking and watchful decantation and selection of the musts, rather than the use of treatments, was the approach taken here to the problematic health and botrytis of the vintage. The results included a 40% reduction in volume over their recent average.Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 547-0255