Campogiovanni’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Quercione is a big, strapping wine. Dark cherries, scorched earth, smoke, tobacco and licorice are some of the many nuances that fill out the wine’s broad-shouldered frame. A huge, powerful wine, the 2007 needs time to soften. Today, it shows little of the sexiness of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Importer: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094