A challenging white wine that bears a resemblance to Bordeaux Semillon. The nose starts out sweaty and with phosphorous, but it turns more honeyed and complex with airing. The palate is plump and balanced, with layered honey, melon, apple and pith flavors. By the time it finishes up, it’s showing complexity, butterscotch and white pepper notes. Interesting but not for all. ——M.S.(11/1/2011)—— 87