The last of the blends is the 2004 Pirouette. The featured winemakers are Agustin Huneeus Sr. and Philippe Melka. The wine is composed of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 13% Petit Verdot, and 11% Syrah. The fruit was selected from vineyards encompassing five different AVAs with yields in the range of 1-2 tons per acre. The wine was aged for 21 months in French oak, 75% new. The expressive nose offers up pain grille, scorched earth, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a thick wine with silky tannins, superb depth and richness, and layers of flavor. It merits several years of cellaring and should drink well through 2037. In the context of what $55 will get you from Napa Valley or Bordeaux, this is a terrific value. Long Shadows is a winery begun by Alan Shoup, the long-time CEO of Stimson Lane and Chateau Ste.-Michelle. It is a consortium of seven different brands (labels), each with its own star winemaker who has a 25% share in the brand. The concept is that each “?is dedicated to producing a single Columbia Valley wine representing a ‘best of type’ that reflects the winemaker’s signature style.” Tel. (425) 467-9398; www.longshadows.com

Long Shadows Pirouette is made by Agustin Huneeus and Philippe Melka; it’s 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 11% Syrah and 13% Petit Verdot. Aromatic and seductive, it sends waves of perfumed fruit, dusty cocoa, bright espresso and toasted grain from the glass, leading into a soft, smooth and seamless palate. This rich and luscious wine could easily pass for a much pricier Napa Valley blend.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 91