Aging may make this Cabernet more harmonious than it is now. It’s a dramatic wine, ripe in blackberries and cassis, rich in oak, and with smooth, intricate tannins. Yet it’s klutzy now, almost rude, like a gawky teenager who’s growing too fast. Give it 4–5 years to mellow. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 89