The 2002 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has developed far more positively than I envisioned when I first tasted it two years ago. In fact, I wonder if that bottle was representative. Today the 2002 impresses for its considerable power and length. This is a fat, rich Montepulciano with quite a bit of fruit. Some of the more gamy qualities of the grape are also present, adding to a note of rusticity. The sheer freshness and vibrancy of the fruit suggests many years of fine drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Valentini is one of Italy’s most iconic producers. Tiny production, fabulous reputation and limited distribution means the wines are very well known and fiercely sought by cognoscenti but otherwise virtually unknown, at least in this country. Fortunately, it looks like that is about to change now that the estate has taken on new US representation. Valentini makes three wines, all along staunchly traditional lines. The Trebbiano is fascinating for its ageability and the way it acquires an oiliness over time that recalls white Burgundy. The Cerasuolo, a rose, needs to be drunk young, but it is one of the finest roses in all of Italy. Valentini’s Montepulciano is another magnificent wine that has a track record of aging beautifully for 25 years or more after the vintage. Production is just 4,000 bottles per year and the wine is expensive, but it is also incredibly unique. Valentini’s wines can sometimes be awkward when they are first released. In many ways these wines remind me of the Barolos of Giuseppe Mascarello in that they can be a touch disjointed, sometimes even rustic, when young, but then mature spectacularly well with many years in bottle. Proprietor Francesco Paolo Valentini releases his wines only when he is happy with the vintage, which explains the lack of 2006 and 2007 Trebbiano. Readers who can find these wines and have the patience to cellar them (except the Cerasuolo) are in for a treat. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822