The nice thing about this dessert wine is that you can recognize those distinctive musky notes that come from botrytis. This unique vineyard phenomenon only occurs in a handful of Italian vineyards and Fattoria Zerbina is lucky enough to have one. Aromas recall the fuzz on a peach: You get the fresh fruit but also the warm, organic tones from the skin. Its texture is thick and opulent and its finish is long lasting.——M.L.(5/1/2008)—— 92