A big wine in every sense of the word - 15.9% alcohol, a touch of residual sugar, all American oak - but a pleasing example of what big, old-vine Lodi Zinfandel fruit can be when it’s made well. Definitely rich and thick, even bacony, the wine is still lush with soft tannins and lots of chocolate and cherry crammed between cardamom and black pepper spice. Let it air. ——V.B.(9/1/2011)—— 90