Good fruit and a great vineyard count for a lot, but these do not have the same concentration as Cabs from Champoux’s old vines. The flavors here have the sweetness and lightness of younger vines, grapy and pleasant, but somewhat insubstantial. It’s good, but not discernibly better than the regular Cab at less than half the price. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 88