The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard is a glass-coating opaque purple color. Aged in 43% new oak, the aromatics reveal notes of pain grille, pencil lead, incense, blackcurrant, and blackberry. On the palate, this masculine effort has outstanding density and richness with the structure to match. Give it 3-4 years, and drink it from 2012 to 2025. Tel: (509) 526-9463; www.threeriverswinery.com

Champoux, one of the iconic Washington Cabernet vineyards, deserves its status and the attention that this all-Cabernet wine gives it. The wine has big, broad, rich flavors of black cherry, dotted with coffee, pepper and earth. The winemaking is solid, and the wine is nicely detailed, but the finish stops short.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 89