The light to medium ruby-colored 1997 Volnay Clos des Chenes reveals cassis liqueur and violet aromas. This is a wine of purity and structure. Foursquare, medium to full-bodied, it is crammed with stones, blackberries, and brambleberries. This broad-shouldered, muscular wine will require a year or two of cellaring and should evolve extremely well over the coming 7-8 years. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers.