The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes wafts from the glass with aromas of cassis, dark berry fruit and plums mingled with notions of warm spices, orange rind, rose petals and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's pure and vibrant, with lively acids, ripe tannins and a long, penetrating finish. It's a magical wine in the making.