Pineapple, white peach, and grapefruit, hedge flowers and rosemary enticingly scent Droin’s 2008 Chablis Mont de Milieu, which goes on to display a vivacity, cut, and clarity exemplifying the virtues of its vintage, with floral and crystalline mineral nuances practically shimmering through a luscious sea of citrus and pit fruit. The lushness of texture and rich ripeness suggests one of the site’s Right Bank grand cru neighbors, but lift and refreshment are ever-present. Expect this to perform well for at least 6-8 years, but don’t miss out on savoring some young, too. ”I think 2007 displays a bit more finesse than 2008 and might have the edge in ten or fifteen years,” suggests Benoit Droin’s, but adds that he doesn’t perceive his more generous 2008s – which he compares with 2002 – as less impressive today. Nor, in the least, do I: in fact, they represent the most exciting collection I have so-far tasted here; in my opinion a significant advance on Droin’s 2007s. I hope his estimated time frame proves accurate, but this is admittedly another of those Chablis addresses where – even putting aside one’s general concerns about premature oxidation – the rise in quality and the influence of a new generation are too recent to really be able to treat results from the 1990s as predictive of today’s wines’ evolution. Droin bottled all of his 2008s already in September. Unfortunately due to a schedule change that put us both under time pressure, I was able to taste only around 70% of the entire collection. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565