The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard (8,500 cases) offers an herbal, black fruit-laced nose. A structured, verging on tannic, wine, it reveals copious quantities of tar-tinged dark fruits and spices. Anticipated maturity: 2008 to 2014. Tel. (800) 267-6793; www.ste-michelle.com

This wine retains some of the vineyard’s firm, taut black cherry fruit, but its edges seem sanded down, smoothed over. It feels oddly soft in the mouth, but rough in the finish, somehow manipulated. This exceptional vineyard is capable of much more. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 88