The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard is 100% Cabernet and was aged in 81% new oak. The brooding aromas deliver elements of pain grille, pencil lead, assorted black fruits, and plum. Firm and elegant, with ample spicy flavors, it will develop for 3-4 years and drink well from 2012 to 2020. Chateau Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest winery, continues to demonstrate that being big is not incompatible with high quality. The latest set of releases may be the strongest to date.Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

For thoughts on Chateau Ste Michelle’s uniqueness and recent evolution, consult my extensive April, 2013 text designed to introduce recent tasting notes. Green walnut bitterness and decadent autumn foliage signal that Ste Michelle’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard wants to be enjoyed now if you didn’t already. Subtle nut, chalk and iodine notes inform a pliable, still juicy palate and still satisfying, if understated finish. (This note reflects the stronger of two simultaneously-opened bottles.) Tel. (425) 488-1133

Pure Cabernet Sauvignon from older vines, the Cold Creek bottling often begins life rather compact, even hard, and will usually benefit from some years of bottle age. This 2005 is a tough, somewhat stemmy wine, with tightly wound black fruits, herbs and leather wrapped into its core. Tannic and unyielding, even after some hours of breathing time, it is a bit too soon to know exactly how good it will ultimately become.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 88