This Rhone blend is a little too straightforward now, with its easy flavors of cherries, raspberries, blackberries, licorice, chocolate and green mint jelly. But it’s not a simple wine, just a young one, and instinct suggests cellaring it for a few years. The quality of the tannins and overall balance will help it mellow and improve through 2011.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 90