The 1998 Pinot Gris Altenberg de Bergheim was produced from low 23 h/h yields. It displays boisterous, rich, smoky apricot aromas. This full-bodied, oily-textured wine is packed with compotes of apricots, pears, and spices. It has huge depth, massive richness, and density. Concentrated and well-structured, it also possesses a long, honeyed lemon-packed finish. Drink it over the next 12 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.