The nonchalance here is sensational. It's fleshy, flavoursome and easy-going and yet, when it finishes, it's brilliantly persistent. Not lean, but searing. Not fat, but loaded with oatmeal, yellow stone fruit and sweet, creamy, cedary oak. It's generous for the most part but savvy enough to stash away a few tricks for a later date; despite the flesh, it's taut. In the end it's an essay on the beauty of the chardonnay variety, and perhaps too on its (P58) clone.