If it weren’t for the drying oak and old-fashioned tart acidity, this would be even more approachable and hence even more likable. But as is, it’s spicy and true to its roots, with pepper and rooty aromas preceding raspberry and cherry flavors. Best with food because it has tightness and snap more than, say, flesh, extract and richness.——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 89