One of the real stars here, and certainly under the radar as far as I can tell, is the 2005 Pinot Gris, a beautiful wine showing notes of nectarine, quince, and lemon butter in a beautifully textured, crisp, elegant, but fleshy style with no evidence of wood. This wine should be very food-friendly and drink well for 2-3 years. Tel. (888) 668-7729

One thing about PG is that, no matter whether it’s oaked or not, the best ones need a cool climate. That’s just what the grapes got here. The racy acidity is preserved, while long hang time gives ripe fruit and spice flavors. In this case, there’s a touch of oak and lees, which adds layers to this delicious, complex white wine. ——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 90