To demonstrate the aging potential of these wines, Keith Mugford opened a bottle of 2002 Semillon from the winery's library. Showing attractive notes of peach kernel, honey and orange marmalade, it had clearly matured magnificently. Medium-bodied and slightly creamy in texture, with a long finish, it's a testament to the staying power of Semillon.

One wild wine. Its aromatics remind me of chile powder, and the palate is rife with more chiles, pear fruit and leafy-greens accents. The mouthfeel is nice—medium-weight, with both zest and viscosity—but it’s a little disjointed.——D.T.(11/15/2004)—— 86