If I was expecting density and formidable tanninity from Bize-Leroy’s 2008 Clos Vougeot – and I guess that, relatively speaking, I was – it surprised me with its remarkable sense of buoyancy and transparency. The extract and the tannic underpinnings are there, but felt in the background – or like the ground you walk on and whose support you don’t think about. Through a deep pool of grenadine, cherry and red meat juices are glimpsed heliotrope and narcissus perfume; rose hip, black tea and licorice; salt and crushed stone. An invigoratingly tart kick of berry skin and rhubarb adds to the kinetic intensity of an exhilarating finish. In 25 years I suspect this will still have sap and energy in reserve. It is a Clos Vougeot like no other I can recall. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040