I was surprised to see a hint of amber on the edge of the otherwise medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1997 Clos de Vougeot. Its opulent full-bodied personality is crammed with sweet red cherries, tar, blackberry jam, juniper berries, and cloves. Its extraordinarily long finish displays copious round, ripe, and supple tannins. Projected maturity: 2006-2010+.