Though production is quite limited, Forgeron makes one of the best Washington Zinfandels—admittedly a small group—and has already defined a style for the grape that is quite distinct from California. It’s set up sharply upon bright acids, and the spice accents of cinnamon, allspice and coffee, are lightly applied. There is none of the fatness of the California wines; this is Zin that has been slimmed but not watered down. Flavors are tart and spicy, and the fruit is lightly dappled with interesting herbs.——P.G.(7/1/2008)—— 88