Although lighter than previous efforts, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a dark ruby color, medium body, black currant and damp earth characteristics, and a lean finish. Previously recommended: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (96+), 2002 Reserve Claret (97+). Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-6039

Soft, rich and ripe, this is one of those Cabernets that feels dramatic in the mouth. Partly it’s the fruit; complex in cherries, blackberries, mocha and rum and cola. Partly it’s the oak and partly it’s the fabulous balance of rich, sweet tannins and acidity. Put it all together, and it’s irresistible. Best now–2010. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 92