What an amazing record Robert Young has with its Chardonnay, which has been famous as a vineyard-designate by Chateau St. Jean since the 1970s. As ever, the ’03 is rich and opulent, soft in acids and instantly addictive for the purity of fruit. Peaches and cream star, with a baked meringue complexity that’s simply irresistible. ——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 92