This is sensuous Chardonnay that provides plenty of texture and depth without being heavy. The bouquet is robust and complex, with pear, smoke, vanilla, cumin and an appealing oatmeal-graham cracker-like note. A full spectrum of similarly ripe fruit flavors coats the mouth, bolstered by good acidity, and you can almost sink your teeth into the full, chewy mouthfeel. This very impressive bottling finishes long and complex, with grainy pear, spice and buttery notes. Editors’ Choice.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 93