The Gevrey-Chambertin is mediocre. The style of wine here is hardly classic, but rather one that produces rich, alcoholic, fat, hedonistic wines with plenty of fragrance, body, sweetness, and color. Unfortunately, Bernard Drouhin began to filter the wines he sends to America because it is "the safe thing to do." By his own admission, the 1983 vintage is "great because the journalists said it was." Outspoken Drouhin prefers his 1980s and 1978s. The 1983s from Drouhin-Larose were light in color but exhibited broad, dusty, earthy flavors.