Tasted blind, the 2011 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru was a little subdued on the nose with faint scents of green apple, granite and flint, but missing the same intensity and ambition as the Batard-Montrachet. The palate has a low-key entry—it does not want to create too much of a fuss. But it soon gets its act together thanks to a welcome twist of bitter lemon and a spicy vein towards the understated finish. If it were a child in a choir, you would be encouraging them to "sing louder." Tasted October 2016.