The most interesting of this trio is the 2004 Chardonnay Katherine’s Vineyard, which reveals a flamboyant nose of orange blossoms, lemon honey, and wet stones. Tropical fruit characteristics also emerge on the palate. Drink this ripe, medium-bodied white over the next 1-2 years. Tel. (805) 937-8091

This cool-climate wine needs a warm vintage to show its best, and it certainly got heat in 2004. The result is a big, opulent wine with masses of tropical fruit flavors slathered in spicy oak. Yet it retains crisp, citrusy acidity, and has an elegant streak of minerality.——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 88