Niewodniczanski’s 2007 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben – from un-grafted, centenarian vines – epitomizes his ideal of texturally rich, plush, profoundly-layered Riesling. Heliotrope, peony, talcum, crushed stone, and orange and lemon zests inform the nose as well as a palate that combines lees-enriched creaminess with copious sheer sap. This practically explodes in a finishing shower of flower petals, crushed stone, and citrus oil, while – in contrasting key – toasted nuts, fruit pits, and even a note of dark chocolate offer persistent, low-toned, subtly bitter persistence. This should be worth following for at least a decade and – like Niewodniczanski – I hope much longer. Except for three that don’t taste dry, this year’s van Volxem bottlings weigh in at between 11.5% and 12% alcohol, and range between 5 and 18 grams of residual sugar (none however labeled “trocken,” in keeping not only with with proprietor Roman Niewodniczanski’s penchant for judicious residual sugar, but also his admirable attempt to de-emphasize that term). Predictably, too, no fining of any sort was performed on the musts. The top wines were as usual here not bottled until late summer. For details on the house style and Niewodniczanski’s ambitions, please consult earlier reports, notably that in issue 163. Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687 4848