The Van Volxem centenarian-vines 2010 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben delivers pithy, nutty, smolderingly-smoky, low-toned intensity, with peach, pear, and lemon more marked by their pits, pips, and zest than their flesh. To the memorable, mouthwatering finishing rescue of what would otherwise prove an austere performance, comes a scallop-like sense of saline, alkaline, suggestively sweet savor that had no counterpart in any of the other non-sweet wines in the present collection. This will engender plenty of intrigue over the coming 15 or more years, though its personality may well ultimately prove more brooding than uplifting. While the 2010 Van Volxem collection incorporates some of the vintage’s strongest Saar performances, the stars weren’t where I would have predicted them. In particular, this year’s three nobly sweet bottlings – which cellarmaster Dominik Volk notes fermented unusually quickly, in contrast with their non-sweet brethren – displayed clarity, vivacity, and balanced sweetness that I have not previously perceived from that genre at this estate, one unapologetically focused on (near-) dry wines. (Largely on account of sheer paucity of total wine this vintage, those nobly sweet Rieslings were bottled already in August, along with all of the collection’s top non-sweet Rieslings.) Considering that very late harvest; skin contact; extended lees contact; and occasional malo-lactic fermentation are to be expected at this address, it did not surprise me to hear Volk claim that there was no resort to outright de-acidification. In many instances wines fermented through spring; some were left on even their gross lees thereafter; and considerable stirring took place. Volk adds his voice to those who say they know of no explanation for why, on the whole, Saar acid levels were slightly lower this year than those on the Mosel. He and proprietor Roman Niewodniczanski believe that all of their top wines from this vintage will keep well for 20-30 years. I’d say that the verdict on how wines from this address mature is limited not only by 2000 being the first vintage under the present regime, but also by the fact that significant changes in cellar approach took place in its early years. Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687 4848