The first of its kind in many years, Eymaels’ 2009 Gewurztraminer Spatlese trocken is scented with caraway, rose petal, and newly tanned leather. There is a welcome hint of juiciness on the wine’s expansive palate; at 13% alcohol no danger of heat; and the finish is surprisingly discreet and only slightly, stimulatingly bitter. This should prove useful at table over the next several years. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463