Tasting through Robert Mondavi's portfolio continues to reinforce my impression that this winery is undeniably the spiritual and qualitative leader of that sector of the California wine industry dedicated to producing world-class wines. What is so admirable about the entire Mondavi operation is that they continue to push their wines to higher and higher qualitative levels. Their nearly obsessive pursuit of bottling the wines with no manipulation has led to the majority of Mondavi's white wines being bottled without filtration - an extraordinary testament to their commitment to natural wines and superb quality. Mondavi has also inaugurated a line-up of Italian-inspired varietals (Barbera, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia, and Tocai) in designer bottles. While the quality is good, those products have not yet hit the heights of the firm's other wines. Rest assured, that will change. While most wine collectors concentrate on Mondavi's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon program (and why not?), this winery has been turning out fine, unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignons from Napa and from their Oakville vineyard. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa displays a healthy, saturated dark ruby/purple color, moderately intense cassis aromas backed up by oak, full body, excellent purity, an attractive, sweet, expansive mouthfeel, and light tannin in the finish. Already delicious, it will last 10 or more years. All things considered, there is plenty to be excited about at the Robert Mondavi winery. Tel. (800)-MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.