A 2005 Morey-St.-Denis – assembled but not bottled when I tasted (with one lot left behind and still in malo!) – displays ripe purple plum with notes of plum pit and cumin, an agreeably juicy, soft, enveloping and pure-fruited palate impression, and a lovely, long finish with mineral and animal suggestions. This is from young vines, and it may lack a little grip but makes up for it in purity and charm, particularly if enjoyed in 3-5 years. At the time of my visit, Regis Forey had only recently (with one exception noted below) bottled his 2005s – unfiltered, and with very low levels of sulfur. These are a profoundly-satisfying, and ageworthy group of wines, but not at all showy. Forey was not timid with extraction when it came to this vintage; on the other hand he was one of several growers who told me he had recently lightened up on the use of new wood, and one of several to employ a significant number of 500 liter (double barrique) barrels to diminish the stave surface to wine volume ratio and enhance freshness. Forey’s line-up has been significantly enhanced in recent years by rental agreements. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990