The Forey 2006 Morey-St.-Denis comes as a darkly-hued, slightly somber contrast to his Bourgogne, featuring smoky, mossy, forest floor, plum, and blackberry scents and flavors that spread a plush, long-running carpet onto the palate. This offers eloquent testimony to the wisdom of Forey's vinificatory approach (and, certainly, the quality of his viticulture) in its refinement of tannins, seamless ripeness, and satisfying sense of stuffing. Hints of dark chocolate and the spiciness of new wood ingratiate themselves. At the same time, a primary juiciness and fresh fruit skin edge is retained throughout, guaranteeing refreshment and even invigoration from a wine of low-toned richness, subtle interplay, and overall elegance. I would expect this to hold its exemplary balance and virtues for at least 5-6 years. Regis Forey insists that only negligible triage was necessary on his 2006 crop, and in addition to the advantages of lees contact conferred by protracted and relatively late malolactic transformation, he also did some active stirring to fatten the young wines. Finished alcohol levels in this collection vary between what appear on the basis of taste to be an ideal 12.5%-13.5%, and with the exception of an uncooperative portion of his village Vosne-Romanee, none of these wines was filtered. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990