Getting a grip on the size and importance of this cooperative winery in the Marches is not an easy task. We’re talking about 4000 acres of vineyards, all cultivated according to the criteria of biological agriculture, 30% of the production of the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi appellation and over 50% of the production of Rosso Conero. Quality has grown to match the sheer volume, and house winemaker Giuliano D’Ignazi is now working with Riccardo Cotarella on a series of ambitious projects to make wines which compete with the best of central Italy. Their efforts are first felt in the 2001 Rosso Conero Riserva Nerone, jammy, floral, and mineral on the nose, full and supple on the palate, and with much depth and length on the finish. It will drink well for another decade. Importer: Matt Bros., New York, NY; tel. (212) 587-8147