Hiedler's 2000 Riesling Maximum was produced from 30-35 year old vines in the Heiligenstein. Its perfumed, violet-laced nose leads to an opulent, layered, sexy personality (yes, this is Riesling!). Its gorgeously intense character is concentrated, lush, immensely spicy, and dense. Readers who crave austere, strict, refined, super-focused Rieslings are likely to regard this as over the top. However those who lust after ripe, thick fruit will adore it. Projected maturity: Now-2010. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300